The Good and Evil in Wireless Repeaters

Wireless Repeaters are Good!

Wireless Repeaters are Good! And its applicability is much more realistic in today's world. We all know what WiFi is. I don't mean the nerdy stuff behind it. But just WiFi...we know what it is. And we know it's important and that it's part of life. Can you imagine life today without WiFi? A year or two ago maybe people were just concern of getting a good internet connection. But today, you need more than that! With all the wireless devices around, Smartphones, Tablets, iPads and now SmartTV, we all desperately want a good WiFi connection.

If you have a good internet plan, let's say your paying for something like a 2 Mbps plan, that's actually  a good connection for home use by "Philippine standards" (knowing that we run a slow connection in the county). Your connection is probably in a stable line like a Digital Subscriber Line (DSL) from PLDT, BayanTel or Globe. I say stable because anything that's wired is better than wireless (Crazy right? Wired better than Wireless and we're here talking about Wireless connection). So going back... Your internet connection might be running okay, BUT you seem to be having problems going to your favorite websites or doing an internet search. Well, if you're doing this on a Wireless device such as your laptop or iPad, you have to take notice of the Wireless Signal strength. If the Wireless Signal is WEAK, then that in itself is a problem and can cause your slow connection. But if the signal is strong, then this article might not apply to you yet. You might need to check your internet connection or the number of users using your WiFi and the applications or websites they are using.

If the Wireless Signal is weak, that in itself is a problem and can cause your slow connection. Why? Think of it as something like this. You're standing on the side of the road and across the street is your friend. You call to your friend with a normal tone of voice and he barely hears you or doesn't hear you at all. Why? Because of your distance and your normal tone of voice is not enough to reach the receiver (your friend). In a WiFi perspective, that would mean the communication between your laptop and the router is not amplified enough that the router and the laptop barely hears each other. This causes the slow connection. And in worst cases, since you are too far from each other that there is no communication at all, you and your friend can't hear each other and similarly your router and laptop are having the same experience. So since no communication is present then you'll have a bad WiFi signal or no signal at all (even if the internet supply from your modem/router is actually working fine..in this case, it's not the fault of your internet provider...internet in not actually slow!).

So it's about the distance between the router and wireless laptop or iPad? Yes! Exactly. But what if they are close to each other and I still get a bad signal? Let's say the router is just outside your door or just down the hall or at your brother's in the room next to yours. Why do I still get a bad signal? That couldn't be too far away... If you're thinking that, that's also correct. But here's the possible cause of your predicament... Wireless Routers vary in the amount of power it gives to boost the signal and the size (or range) of the antenna. We will not go deep and talk about how to manage router power or the types of antenna to use. But basically, these two (2) factors affects how far the WiFi signal goes. So a lower transmission power or small antenna or both, can cause your router to send the WiFi signal to only a limited area thus you don't get a good signal even if you think you're just near the router. Secondly, there's the issue of walls and other obstructions that blocks the WiFi signal. Have you tried to check the difference of your WiFi when the door was open and when it was closed? Right... the signal was better when the door was open. Why? Because you took away the obstacle. WiFi signals are SIGNALS and by nature they need to get through your thick walls. So if you have a lovely house, you might also have thick concrete walls all around and that's going to cause your WiFi signal to sweat!

The solution to all our WiFi signal problems? Yes... the main topic of this article... you need a WIRELESS REPEATER to get a good WiFi signal in a wide area or somewhere with a lot of concrete walls and other obstructions. As the name suggest, a Wireless Repeater simply REPEATS the signal and does not create its own signal/new network like your router.

Going deeper into the concept of repeaters.

Wireless Repeaters will need to connect to your existing router (so you will have 2 devices, the router and the repeater). The connection will also be wireless. I'm talking here of your usual commercial repeater product available at any tech shop in your favorite mall. I prefer to use TP-Link devices but there are also Cisco-Linksys repeaters that I would recommend and there's a repeater from Asus and Netgear but I don't have a real hands-on review for the Netgear and just a bit for Asus.

Setting up the repeater will vary according to the device you have. But here's the general structure. Again, you connect them via wireless (so that's good, no more wires!). Once you get the repeater connected to the router, your Service Set Identifier (SSID) or "WiFi Name" will be one and the same as that of your router. The design here is not to setup two (2) routers and have two (2) WiFi Names, with Wireless Repeaters, you will get the convenience of having one (1) WiFi Name and the extended range!

So how does it extend the range? Let's say your router is in your living room and that it has a good signal around a 5-meter radius. That's the limit for that router. Now, you have a Wireless Repeater in your room where the signal was weak. The repeater will get the signal from the router and REPEAT/EXTEND/BOOST it your room giving you a superior WiFi signal strength (or how we understand it, "faster internet connection").

As simple as that...problem on Wireless signal solved!

But there is a dark side to Wireless Repeaters... But you don't need to worry about this unless you're into very deep performance configurations.

The nature of the repeater's architecture is that it acts as a middleman between the router and your laptop and it does not provide a clear highway between the two (2) devices [your laptop and the router]. What it actually does is that it "echoes" your communication/data--you get your signal from the repeater then the repeater sends the signal to the router...when the router replies, the message is first sent to the repeater and the repeater sends it to you. This echoing of communication causes a huge 50% cut in network performance (not a cut in your "internet speed"). This should not bother the average user.

In our house I have the main router in the  house-office which is a separate closed room in the second floor. You see thick concrete walls everywhere and getting WiFi signal to all the rooms is impossible without a Wireless Repeater. My main router, a Cisco E3000 (with dd-wrt) reaches only the common areas in the first and second floors. So I have one (1) TP-Link TL-WA830RE Wireless Repeater in the second floor and one (1) TP-Link TL-WA730RE Wireless Repeater for the first floor. This setup enabled me to boost the wireless signal and get the WiFi signal to reach all the rooms.

There are other ways to boost your WiFi signal. Such as proper placement of routers, changing to antennas that provides better coverage, among others. But for wide areas or areas with a lot of obstruction, I suggest you go for a Wireless Repeater.

Tip: When you setup your Wireless Repeater, Connect it to the router not to the other repeater if you have more than one (1) Wireless Repeater running.

Tip #2: Wireless Routers (and also Wireless Repeaters) run on signals or radio waves. These waves have specific frequencies. If you set it close to other radio transmitting devices (such as your microwave oven and wireless telephone), your signal will need to work harder to broadcast itself.

Hope this helps someone.

Dropbox Free Cloud Storage

So many choices! But I choose DROPBOX!

Cloud Storage (or storing your files in the cloud) simply means your files are stored in a different hard drive (not the one you have in your computer) and that it can be accessed from anywhere by anyhow at anytime. 

I actually installed and tried different Cloud services and based on how I needed it and how it was delivered by the provider, I got to say Dropbox is #1 and next is Google Drive. This review is based on how these clouds appealed to me when I was looking for a Free Cloud service to Sync not just a few computers and devices but to handle Syncs in 40+ Windows XP boxes, several laptops and devices.

Why Dropbox is the winner?

1. Very easy to install. Straight forward with no errors in installation. Requires very few data during registration and your done (we all hate answering longs forms and reading captchas). (To install Dropbox click here). After completing the registration form the installer will auto download. After that you can already install.
2. Useful features.

• You can save important files in your Dropbox and it will be available in all of your devices (iPad, Android, Blackberry, other computers).
• It synchronizes files and folders to all devices wherever the update was made from.
• You can work directly from files in your Dropbox folder. The Dropbox folder can be customized according to your desired location. By default it is installed in your My Documents. Supports special features for different devices. Such as 1) Auto-sync your pictures when you insert your USB drive, 2) Command different functions from your Blackberry such as Import and Export contact to Dropbox. 3) Share links to file so others can download it (externally). 4) Share folders and files and collaborate.5) Many more useful features. This is just the beginning.

3. Dropbox is FAST! Compared to Google Drive, files will sync faster!

4. No false advertisements, no crap on the website, no clutter on the software. Straightforward service! Other Cloud services will let you download for "free" but then again have you pay at the end. Promising unlimited bites but actually you have to pay to be "protected".

5. Get up to 16GB Free from referrals. 2GB is the standard free space in Dropbox. Small if you have many files to save, but on average its enough. And besides, Dropbox has plenty of free space to give away. 

Create a Dropbox Account NOW!

Comments on other Cloud Service

1. Google Drive - Syncs slower than Dropbox. But has  the advantage of 5GB Free space.
2. CX - Enables the user to really define the local cloud folder. Unlike in Dropbox and Google Drive, wherever you place it will always create the folders "Dropbox" and "Google Drive". This was my third best but it could not completely install in my Win7, Core-i7, ASUS board box. Plus it always get a flag message from my firewall. Makes you wonder if its safe to install.
3. JustCloud - Its just not worth it! They advertise for free unli storage with a price.
4. Sugarsync - have not tried this one. They say its also good.
5. Box - reviews not so high as far as I have seen. Dropbox and box are different.
6. Ubuntu One - Its slow. Installation is not the appealing. Lacks features. 

PLDT Modem

You learn something new everyday!PLDT Modem Conquered!

I was at one of our company's new branch to setup the system there. DSL was already installed around 6 months before but hasn't been used since opening of the branch was delayed. When I got there I expected to plug the DSL directly and would get connected, but instead they handed me the DSL box (literally, the box)--it hasn't been configured yet. So I plugged the DSL to the computer (LAN-to-LAN) and the computer could not get an IP from the DHCP Server.

My First Mistake: I first checked the wiring even when I knew nothing was wrong with it. Initial diagnostics of a PLDT DSL ZyXel P-600 would tell you to check all light indicators first. And all were good but I didn't pay attention to that and did the wiring check first. Big mistake! Power was okay, Ethernet was okay (thus nothing wrong with the connection from modem to computer) and DSL was okay (thus line was good). If you do encounter an all green all okay connection, thus you should first check modem then the computer configurations for any problems.

Note: PLDT ZyXel P-600 modem's Ethernet light is color GREEN when wires are connected but LAN card is disabled and ORANGE if wired and connected.

Going back to the challenge, I need to connect to the modem's web interface to make the configuration but could not get an IP from the DHCP Server. After consulting with our friend Mr. Google I read from a blog that I needed to manually assign a local IP first to get in to the modem. So I did and it worked!

• IPv4: 192.168.1.33
• Subnet: 252.255.255.0

The problem was that by DEFUALT the DHCP Server in the modem is disabled.

Note #2: After you get in the router and activate the DHCP Server you need to set your LAN's IP back to obtain.

Since I'm already in the web interface I have two options which to proceed with the activation.

1. Create a new PPPoE connection from the Network and Sharing Center (Win7). I don't recommend this if you want to be connected  24x7 since you have to manually connect every time the computer boots.
2. Set the modem from Bridge mode to Router and setup the PPPoE settings there.

On Option-2:

Benefits:

• Connection is always on.
• You can distribute connection. Either wired or wireless.
• If using another Router set IP to Dynamic (obtain).

How?

• (Your done already setting up your DHCP Server and you can already access the web interface)
• Go to Network > WAN
• Change mode to Routing (from Bridge)
• Change Encapsulation to PPPoE and enter your PPPoE Username and Password (which are your PLDT account's telephone # w/o the zero in the start of the area code and your Account # as Username and Password, respectively)
• Check Nailed up Connection (not Connect on Demand)
• (IP Address should be obtain)
• Go to Network > NAT (NAT Setup)
• Check Active Network Address Translation
• Select "SUA Only"
• Apply changes and reboot (or power off/on Zyxel)

If everything works perfectly then your Modem would already be connected.

Final notes:

• After activating DHCP Server don't forget to indicate IP Pool Starting Address (192.168.1.100). You also need to indicate Pool Size (32) and Primary and Secondary DNS Server. For me I used the default PLDT DNS and "8.8.8.8" as secondary (free DNS Server from google).
• On the first problem, Modem's DHCP was down. How come it worked when I assigned a local IP? The answer is becuase 1) The default gateway of the Model is 192.168.1.1 and I locally assigned 192.168.1.33 to my computer making them members of the subnet group. Even without a DHCP Server as long as they are in the same family they will see each other.
• If you want to do a hard reset there is one at the back near the power switch.
• To reset simply long-press the reset button for 10 seconds or until lights starts blinking.

DSL Micro Filter

Micro Filter: Use or Not?

First of all what is a Micro Filter? Basically its installed between your phone line and your DSL modem with the goal to make internet connections more stable. The typical DSL Micro Filters I know has an RJ-11 tip on one end which you plug in your telephone socket and an RJ-11 socket on the other which you will use to connect your ADSL Modem. Other variants comes as a splitter--for telephone and DSL.

DSL connections can come in two forms, Naked and Bundled. The first one (Naked) is a dedicated line for DSL connection only. Whereas Bundled connections is one line which services both voice (telephone) and data (internet). From what I have read it is advised to use Micro Filters for Bundled connections to prevent interference from either of the two frequencies (voice and data). I believe the explanation is sound, however I have no way of testing that since I only have Naked connections.

Last night I installed a Micro Filter in our office. I placed it between the telephone socket and the ADSL. Connection was okay and maintained to be stable. Well, it was already like that, so just no complain here. Until I tested it with speedtest.net. I was randomly getting the results from speedtest the whole day and to my surprise the Micro Filter instead of improving performance actually reduced my Download speed by a few Kbps. Our connection in the office is a stable 5Mbps, with the Micro Filter installed it could not really hit 5Mbps. So this evening I took out the Micro Filter and immediately did a test and right there and then speedtest registered over 5Mbps. To verify the results I conducted the test over and over again among several servers and the results were conclusive.

Again I have not tested the performance of a Micro Filter over a Bundled line, but its purpose is to protect each frequency running in the wires against radio interference. In my setup I did not need the Micro Filter since their was only one (1) radio frequency running through the wires.

The nature of the Micro Filter is not directly the cause of my setup's reduced performance. In other words filtering the connection doesn't do any damage. However as you increase the number of Hops (devices where data passes) data travel naturally increases and performance diminishes.

Note: PLDT is my ISP

WiFi All Over the House

I wanted to get my WiFi signal all over the house.

Structural challenges:

1. Two floors to cover.
2. The house is solid. Mostly concrete and hard wood.
3. Not to many options for the location of the router.

What I have to work with:

1. ZyXel Router ( P-2612HWU-F1) from PLDT (my ISP)
2. TP-Link Router (TL-WR941ND) with three (3) 5dBi antennas
3. DSL (Telephone Wire)
4. Three (3) 9dBi omni-directional antennas

TP-Link TL-WR941ND (Front)

TP-Link TL-WR941ND (Back)

The story: 

The task was to get the WiFi signal all over the house so that everybody can enjoy it--even in their rooms. I cant do so much with the ZyXel Router from PLDT. The antenna (Single 5dBi) is fixed and configuration is very limited. Although signal strength is good when in the open areas, even when at the second floor, but signal was either very poor or lost when in the rooms. Again I cant do so much with the router and wired connection of any type is not an option here.

For the problem above I thought of adding an additional router (thus TL-WR941ND). The TP-Link router would get its internet from the ZyXel which so happens to be the modem also. This connection would be wired from one of Zyxel's LAN Ports (usually color yellow) to the TP-LINK's WAN Port (usually color blue). Under default settings you should be able to get the internet from the Zyxel to the TP-Link Router as soon as you wire them together. No configuration out of the ordinary is required. But remember though for this setup TP-Link's WAN Connection Setup should be set to  Dynamic IP. This will allow the TP-Link Router to automatically get information from the other router.

To address the structural challenges I placed the TP-Link router at a very high elevation (at the center of both floors). Physically this made the router closer to each floor. I then replaced the three (3) 5dBi antennas that came with the TP-Link Router with high gain 9dBi antennas (12dBi antennas or those that come with an externally powered range booster mount would be even better). I specifically purchased this type of router because #1 the antennas are replaceable (thus I can upgrade) and #2 it has three (3) antennas and uses MIMO technology. The antennas are triangularly positioned and are tilted forward. This allowed the center of the doughnut-shaped radio signal to focus on my target "dead spots". Note that the router is placed on top of the wall on one side of the house, thus signal should be pushed forward.

At first I changed the radio frequency of both routers and distanced them to lessen interference and overlapping  (ZyXel channel 1 and TP-Link channel 4). Having other wireless devices operating close to each other in the same or close frequency would affect signal performance. But I eventually just turned off the radio of ZyXel as I didn't need any wireless connection from there.

The results:

Success! I got a stable signal in all rooms even when doors are closed. The signal strength indicator doesn't register a full signal when inside the room but its not low and the most notable part is that its stable. Ping results are also good, I got an extra hop since I have an extra router but its not a factor specially for home users.

My Actual Setup

Failed setups: (Resulted in unstable signal strength when inside the rooms) 

1. Same configuration but TP-Link router was placed at a slightly lower elevation.
2. Antennas are positioned normally (not tilted forward).

Notes:

1. Radio signals are weakened by interference (such as walls and doors).
2. The capacity of the radio signal to pass through infrastructures also depend on the materials used in your building/house/site.
3. TP-Link's firmware (TL-WR941ND) can also be upgraded to DD-WRT. But I didn't try it here. I do have a Buffalo box with DD-WRT and features are good (more benefits for advanced and IT users than home users).
4. I like Cisco (Linksys) routers but didn't use them here since antennas are built-in
5. For those with old TP-Link routers and are familiar with the old web interface, the new one is better.
6. WDS Option is available for TL-WR941ND but didn't use it here to save on the cost of a second router. I did try it (ZyXel + Tp-Link) but failed. I think it was due to some configurations in the ZyXel. Everything was good in the TP-Link box. And WDS is a whole different story.